Barangaroo - the progress

Barangaroo is a massive development on the water next around from Sydney Cove. The southern pylon of the harbour bridge has its footprint on Dawes Point. Bennelong Point, with its Opera House is on the next easterly promontory. Barangaroo Point is the next westerly promontory. This development was sold to state governments, of both political persuasion, by one of Australia's richest people, James Packer. He is divesting from a family investment focus on media, to a personal investment focus on gambling. He owns a casino in Melbourne, and wants to own one here in Sydney, too. He owns casinos in Asia, naturally.

But no state government with an eye on the next election, is going to approve just a standalone cxasino on prime harbourside land. So, the development was sexed-up with a mega-star hotel, office space, apartment blocks, and the jewel-in-the-crown: a people's park. The centre shot was taken by SBS in April 2014, and shows the footprint of the entire development. The other two shots I took from the Darling Harbour ferry, which I cannot recommend enough! The lead shot shows part of the "people's-park "on Barangaroo Point. It has been scultured from massive sandstone blocks in an endeavour to (eventually) replicate the original look of the headland. Remember, BTW, that all this part of the harbour foreshore is NOT natural. Since 1788, we have cribbed metres of the harbour, and straightened out miles of kinks and curves. In this photo, you might just be able to make out the tip of the bridge on the left horizon, and the top floor of the Palisade Hotel in Millers Point, immediately to the right of the steps. Beneath this sandstone park, there is a multi-level car-park. The final image shows the progress on the money-making part of Barangaroo.

The Coathanger - Both Sides Now

Dawes Point is the landform from which the southern approaches of the Sydney Harbour Bridge rise. It is named after Lieutenant William Dawes, upon whom the Australian writer based her 2008 book, "The Lieutenant". When the bridge approaches ploughed through this point, it required the demolition of a myriad of terraces upon the "fashionable" Princes Street. Sydney Cove and the Opera House are to the left of this image. Walsh Bay, Barangaroo, and Darling Harbour are to the right of this image.

Milsons Point is the landform from which the northern approachs of the Sydney Harbour Bridge arise. It is named after James Milson, who was a free settler with the savvy to set up a business supplying ferries and watermen who plied the harbour during the 19th century. When the bridge approaches ploughed through this point, the demolition of houses and small business was faithfully recorded by the Reverend Frank Cash, the rector of Christ Church Church of England in adjoining Lavender Bay. To the left of this image is the North Sydney Swimming Pool, and Luna Park. To the right of this image is St Aloysius Boys School, and, out of frame, Admiralty House.

The "Phoenix" hulk

Phoenix Hulk moored at entrance to Billy Blue's Bay [Lavender Bay] : Robert Russell c. 1837 Sketch courtesy of the National Library of Australia, Canberra

In all its years as a penal colony, 1788 to 1840, there was only ever one hulk moored in Sydney's harbour, that of the "Phoenix", which was hove to in the triangulation of Dawes Point, Lavender Bay, and Goat Island, between 1825 and 1837. Governors Brisbane, Darling, and Bourke found it furthered their aims: the presence of the hulk flashed a warning to recalcitrant convicts; the hulk took the pressure off the overflowing gaol at Circular Quay (Sydney Gaol); and, the 260 felons on board were an easily deployed iron' gang for use on either Goat Island, or the rutted tracks throughout the burgeoning township.

Standing on Dawes Point, hanging over the railing of Pier One, here is the triangulated area nearly 200 years later. Imagine the "Captain Cook Cruises" vessel as the "Phoenix", being close enough to "X" marks the spot. To the left of the image, Goat Island sneaks its nose in, to the left of the fuel barge.

The fuel barge continues to chugg down the waterways of the harbour, and exit right. Leaving Goat Island centre stage. The evidence of the relationship between the island and the hulk, is scattered every-which-where on the island, together with the fingerprints of Governor Richard Bourke.

A pivot on my heels, together with a few dollysteps, and my Dawes Point location becomes apparent. Below are two annotated images to help you orient yourself. Both images, courtesy of The Graeme Andrews Collection at the National Maritime Museum.

Underneath the arches ...

Prior to the harbour bridge coming into use in 1932, the harbour - at the same point - was crossed using a ferry, or punt. There were two ferry routes: one that went from Dawes Point to Blues Point (constructed about 1900); another that went from Bennelong Point to Milsons Point (constructed in 1883). The remains of the Dawes Point ferry wharf can still be seen today. These first three images try to pin it down for you. The historic marker (left) refers to it as "the Dawes Point Horse Ferry Wharf". In the early days of this wharf, there were more horse and carts using the service than motorised vehicles. However, in 1830 there was a ferry called "The Experiment" which was a paddlewheeler, the motive power for which was a capstan turned by four horses walking round and round on deck. I am conflicted over which story gave rise to the name!

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There are some wonderful photographs taken by Harold Cazneaux (1878-1953) of the old ferries to and from these wharves. He adored the soft harbour light in the early morning, and some of his best images combine the two. Here is his 1908 "Ticket Collector, Horse Punt", sourced from the Art Gallery, New South Wales (AG-NSW). The specific wharf is not detailed.

Here is another of Cazneaux's ferry images: "The Old Horse Punt", c. 1920. This time on the water. I am not able to read the name of the punt, but it is loaded with horses and carts. This could be the "Kooroongaba", or the "Benelon", or the "Barrangaroo", or the "Warrane", or the "Kamilaroi". Wonderful old names. This image sourced from the digital collection o the National Library of Australia (NLA).

This final image comes from "Philip Geeves presents Cazneaux's Sydney 1904-1934", and depicts the old horse ferry at Milson's Point, which ran to and from Bennelong Point. Apparently, Cazneaux confessed that he haunted the Milsons Point terminus: "The old pre-bridge ferry landing always attracted me and my 'magic box'. It was the soft morning light that prompted the taking of this picture, which I like to think of as one of my best."