Victoria - The Widow of Windsor

Two statues of Queen Victoria in our CBD. Two that I know of, anyways. The first and third photo show the same statue: located in the forecourt of the Queen Victoria Building (QVB), on the intersection of George Street, with both Park Street, and Druitt Streets. I stepped this way and that to alter the background, the golden sandstone of the QVB or the modern stripes of the Hilton. The middle shot is of the statue located at the top of Macquarie Street near its intersection with Prince Albert Road. I did not remove the background. What you see is the sky on an overcast day. Contrary to rumour, we do sometimes get those here in Sydney town.

Queen Victoria ascended the British Throne in June 1837 and died in January 1901 - 63 years and 7 months.. This was in the growth years of Sydney as a city. The ties to "motherland" were strong and genuine. Sadly, they still are. Sometime in September this year, the reign of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, will exceed that of her great-grand-mother.

A dwarfed Sydney Town Hall

I was standing at the intersection of York and Market Streets. My faher worked In D & W Murray (Wholesale Haberdasher) on this corner from 1935 (aged 14) until he joined the army in September 1942. (aged 21). I like York Street, as it has retained many of its early buildings. On the left is the massive Queen Victoria Building (QVB) which was built between 1893 and 1898, and has had numerous face-lifts since then. I remember borrowing books from the City Library which used to be housed therein. That was where I was first introduced to Charmaine Clift. Who? I hear you ask. Nevermind.

Weekend Reflections - Jostling for supremacy

On George Street, a block down from the town hall, the old and the new jostle for supremacy. The new is represented by the concrete, glass and aluminium of the Hilton Hotel (c. 1970). The old is represented by the sandstone, glass and copper of the Queen Victoria Building (c. 1898).

You realise, of course, that those dates are meaningless as both buildings have had extensive make-overs through the years, both inside and out. The QVB maintains its original appearance more so than does the Hilton. However, inside the Hilton is the 1893 Marble Bar, which, although maintaining its 'scaffolding' has also had a nip here, and a tuck there.

That is what cities do: they metamorphose to meet the needs of commerce.


This is a Weekend Reflections contributiom.

Decking QVB

The Swarovski Diamond tree is, once again, beneath the main dome of the Queen Victoria Building. Winding up three floors, the full majesty of the tree becomes apparent. Well ... it used to. This year the powers that be have erected a garish Santa 'thing' right next to the top of the tree. Appalling ... just appalling. But you, dear readers, have been spared this lapse in good taste and judgement.

Up with the toffs

How to make the Hilton Hotel appealing, I puzzled to myself as I negotiated the revolving door to the inner sanctum. Not my usual pasture, inner sanctums and toffs. But, here I was, at the request of Diane from Brissie. Lots of stairs and escalators in this building. You know those annoying sorts of escalators that make you walk right around to the other side to continue the 'up'. Going up four floors, I spied an outside balcony (perhaps for smokers?). Just perfect for shooting an unusual perspective of not only the Hilton but also the QVB. More tomorrow ...

The stench of markets in olfactory memory

Standing in Mullins Street, just down from Market Row, and facing east, with the Queen Victoria Building filling the view-finder. The QVB used to be the old Sydney markets, until its metamorphosis in the 1880s.

Grey, but not bleak

Lincraft is just on this corner, and I was looking for squares of felt to use as grass, and mud, and a pond, and stuff to go with the village through which our wooden train set runs. It was spitting a smidge, but the people scurrying back to their burrows after lunch were not overly worried. I am looking south, down York Street towards the Sydney Town Hall. On my left is the Queen Victoria Building. Back over my right shoulder, out of sight, is forever imprinted on my psyche as the corner of York'n'Market'n'Clarence where my father started work in 1936 as a 15 year old, on the 4th Floor in the haberdashery firm, D&W Murray. He used to pack suitcases for the travelling-salesmen who did set routes through the country areas of the state.

Texture - Sydney sandstone

The QVB (Queen Victoria Building) was built during the 1880s. It has endured a number of incarnations over the following 120 years (vegetable market, government offices, upmarket retail) and quite a few make-overs, bordering on face-lifts. It is currently undergoing another scrubbing. It is all the rage apparently. The State Library has been cleaned. Central Station clock-tower is being cleaned. A sandstone-led recovery from recession, perhaps.

But, get a look at this workmanship! Run a virtual finger over those sandstone-swirls.

Bird's eye view

Market Street is one-way crossing the CBD from East to West. It runs from Hyde Park North to Darling Harbour. Half-way along Market street in the block between George & York Streets stands the QVB which was built in 1888. Prior to this, there was a market on the site. Hence, the name.


Across Market Street in the photograph above, can you discern the glassed pedestrain walkway at the 1st floor level? I stood in this glassed enclosure to take a series of images up and down Market Street early on a Sunday morning.

In the photo on the LHS, I am facing west, toward Darling Harbour which is over the rise. See that bloke in the centre of the road? Where he is standing used to be the swamp wherefrom the Tank Stream sprang. The TS is the reason the early settlers established Sydney where it is. But within 80 years we had polluted the stream and now it is totally underground. In the photo on the RHS, I am facing east, toward Hyde Park. The neon light is an advertisement in the St James subway station which was dug into the park in 1926. All images should enlarge.

Ambos - Making a difference

The riderless motorcycle caught my attention first, propped outside the QVB. Then, I noticed the empty wheelchair beside it, and by gradual progression the ambulance around the corner in George Street. I never did see the patient. Oblivious of the swelling Friday afternoon crowd, the ambo calmly filled in his paperwork. It would be a long shift. Friday shifts always are in a large city.

Note: According to the website of the Ambulance Service of NSW, the motorcycle paramedics have been part of the service for ten years (so say 2000), and are allocated specific zones within the CBD. They can cut through alleys and through Martin Place (legally) and be with a man with chest pains within 3 minutes!

Sydney Open - the dome of the QVB

With much appreciation to Greg Lake for the use of his photographs.


Every two years, the Historic Houses Trust runs a Sydney Open, where upwards of 60 architectural icons are opened to the public. There is a 'general' section where you work out how many locations you can fit into your day, and knock them off one by one. Then, there are the 'Focus Tours' where you pay $30 per person, per tour. These sell out very quickly and places are limited. Getting in early, I secured tickets for the dome of the Queen Victoria Building, the tunnels beneath Central Station, and the Tank Stream beneath Australia Square.


The previous time the QVB dome was opened was in 2006, and one can appreciate why. There was a lot of steep climbing of rickety steps involved, and much dust and pigeon poop. However, the view from the top was exhilarating. This used to be the highest vantage point in the city. If there was a fire on the horizon, this is where it would be seen from first. Nowadays, we were engulfed by glass.


I am indebted to Greg Lake for the majority of photographs in this post, excepting the two immediately above this note of appreciation. Greg and his wife were on the Focus Tour with me, and graciously agreed to email me photographs. Silly me, had taken the organisers at their word when the blurb said 'No photography allowed'. The tour guides gave no such admonition, and camera phones popped up from everywhere. Silly me, left mine at home. Thank you, Greg. I appreciate being in touch with you.

Sydney Open - QVB Dome

This is 'Sydney Open' weekend conducted by the Historic Houses Trust. I have three Focus Tours: the dome of the Queen Victoria Building; the disused tunnels of Central Station; and, the Tank Stream. In between, I have a City Pass to make the most of that I can.

This is my third 'Sydney Open' so I have seen some of the buildings that are open today. It is the perennial 'travelling salesman' connundrum: the best route between desired locations. Here is my 'solution':

Judge's House
King Street Courts
Royal Automobile Club
Police & Justice Museum
History House, and
BMA House.

Yesterday, between heavy rain, I climbed the numerous steps and ladders to walk around the main dome of the QVB. What a way to see a city! However, no photographs. We were told no cameras were allowed the route being too steep and precipitate. However, we had no sooner started than out came all the pocket cameras and mobile phones. I did not realise that I was such a law-abiding citizen. However, one kind gentleman took my email addy and, with any luck, something will arrive during the week. In the meantime, these shots from the interior of this building showing that it is, once again, that time of year.

We are not amused!

I go to Europe for three weeks and return to find my city decked out like a tart. My . city . in . tart's . clothing. Enough now. All the dressups can go back in the box. All the banners. All the tents. Be gone!

Friday Flaneur (3) - Pavement artist

Being as honest as you can, what did you notice first - the image he was reproducing, the padding to protect his knees, or the extent of his vitiligo?

Flaneur (n). A person who strolls the city in order to appreciate it.

Are YOU a flaneur - a la Baudelaire or Sontag?

Weekend Reflection - She would not be amused

The Queen Victoria Building reflected in a more modern building on the western side of York Street

A member of the Weekend Reflection community.

A Sydney Christmas - Seventh Day (Reflections)

The Swarovski Tree, Queen Victoria Building, George St

The Three Drovers (Verse 2 of 3) The air was dry with summer heat And smoke was on the yellow moon; But from the heavens, faint and sweet Came floating down a wond'rous tune And as they heard they sang full well Those drovers three Noel! Noel! Noel! Noel! Noel!

Reflect on other contributions at Weekend Reflections.

Australian Christmas stamps - 1970, 1972 & 1973

Queen Victoria Building

Yesterday's stained glass windows from the outside

To this building I owe a debt of gratitude. Imagine my delight in the late 60s discovering the oeuvre of Charmaine Clift, brown-stained and dog-eared, only knowing her 'til then from reading provocative columns in the Sydney Morning Herald. Squatting on the cold linoleum floor, my brain pulsed with every image of bohemian life on sparkling Greek islands, so far from the white-picket-fence of a life laid out for me.

Left: Prior to the 1890s, the site was occupied by the Old Police Courts according to this image from the State Archives Right: A framed photograph presented to McCrae in July 1898

George McCrae was the City architect who designed the Corn Exchange in Sussex Street erected in 1887 and then this Queen Victoria Building erected in 1898. After many derelict years - to the brink of demolition - the QVB was restored in 1987 and refurbished in 2009. Starting as the Sydney Central Markets (SCM), it was used as offices for the city council and the main branch of the City of Sydney Library, until post restoration it became an upmarket arcade containing over 200 "brand names".


The George Street (nominally Sydney's main street) frontage showing the entrance into the area under the main dome. This photograph was taken from outside the Hilton Hotel where the CHOGM bomb exploded in February 1978, killing three people.

Left: Queen Victoria Markets in 1920 showing the intersection of George, Park & Druitt Streets. Right: The QVB in 1970 from the Electricity Commission building on the corner of George & Bathurst Streets.

Top: The "front" of the QVB facing Sydney Town Hall showing the brooding statue of Queen Victoria.
Bottom: The QVB city block along George Street showing the central dome the entry to which is down at the street lights in the distance.

Historic images are the property of the City of Sydney and the State Archives of NSW