The massive footprint of the Garden Palace

The Garden Palace was erected for the 1879 Sydney International Exhibition, just as the Crystal Palace was erected for the 1851 Exhibition in London, and the Eiffel Tower for the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris. The Eiffel Tower is the only structure still standing, the Crystal Palace also being destroyed by fire, in 1936. Photo 1 and photo 3 show the current gates labelled "Garden Palace". I am not sure they are the sames gates as in photo 2, taken immediately after the blaze. The Australian Historical Society Green Plaque on the gates tell me they were erected in 1889, whereas websites tell me they are the originals. The originals were spread across what we know today as the intersection of Bent Street and Shakespeare Place, ie in front of the State Library, before there was a State Library. They could, of course, be from the original materials, erected in a different spot.

The Garden Palace was massive for its day, even for today if you consider that it was 4 times larger than the existing Queen Victoria Building (QVB), covering just over 8 acres. Its problem was that it was constructed primarily from timber, oregon imported from the United States. It was only ever intended to be a temporary structure, but politicians and citizens got carried away with the grandiose strucure and with their perceived status in the world. Being made from timber, it was a conflagration waiting to happen. Originally intended as a private enterprise venture, the time frame became squashed and the Premier, Sir Henry Parkes, offered the coffers of the state, giving the architect, James Barnet, and the builder, James Young, less than a year to get it all together.

The fire started around dawn on 22nd September, 1882. The watchmen had done their rounds during the early hour, and were out the front near the main gates doing the hand-over, when one noticed smoke arising from the dome. The raced up to the main entrance but it was filled with smoke, The fire-engines were speedily on site, but it was timber, it was on a rise from, the harbour, the design involved long wing that fanned the flames very nicely. The rose gardens of today's Royal Botanic Gardens occupy the space of the north wing of the Garden Palace, with the sunken memorial to the Pioneers (erected in 1938, with a bloody statue of Cupid, is close to where the massive dome loomed. The south wing jutted across Shakespeare Place and into Hospital Road. Below, on the left, ia an image from Sydney Architecture, which endeavours to show the massive footprint on a Google-map scene. It stretched from the State Library, along Macquarie Street, to the Conservatorium of Music, conceived by Governor Macquarie as stables for his dreamt-of Government House. To the eat, it tumbled down what are now lawns sloping down to Farm Cove. It was simply massive, with fantastic views, and could be seen from all over the North Shore of the harbour. It dominbated the skyline. It may not dominate nowadays with all the commercial high-rise of the CBD. Not everyone could go to the top of the donme like photograpgher, Charles Bayliss. But the northern tower had the city's first hydraulic lift, and the citizenry flocked to it in their thousands.

I just adore the next two historic images, taken whilst the 1879 exhibition was in progress, ie September 1879-April 1880. On the left, taken from the northern shore of the harbour, we have a view up the slope to the Garden Palace. On the right of thid image, one can see the curve of Macquarie Street, and the imposing sandstone ediface of the Colonial Secretary's building half-way up. Immeditely behind the celebratory yacht in the foreground, stands Fort Macquarie on Bennelong Point, the site for the Sydney Opera House. At this stage, Fort Macquarie was operating as a tram depot. Can you see the curve of cut standstone cliff which is the Tarpeian Walk, between Benelong point and the nearly inconspicuous Government House? On the right, is a shot taken from the spire of St James church, the same church I featured in my post just last Thursday. See the dome of the Garden Palace and its four entrance towers? Come back this way along Macquarie Street, and on its eastern side there is the Iron Church, which is the site of the "new" wing of the State Library. Next to that is the Legislative Assembly building, parallel to the street, and then the Legislative Council building, perpendicular to the street. Then, there is a long, long stretch of rubble, with the "quaint" Nightingale Wing behind. This rubble had been the second incarnation of the Sydney Hospital, Macquarie's "Rum Hospital" (1816-1879). The third, and still existant, incarnation of Sydney Hospital, although commenced in 1880, was not completed until 1894. In the background of the Garden Palace, can you see the sweep of Farm Cove as it travels out to Mrs Macquarie's Chair? And just the tiniest peek at Fort Denison, the island in the middle of the harbour. Both these phographs were taken by Charles Bayliss. What I wouldn't give (if I had it) to attend a dinner party with Mr Bayliss!

And, so I come back to the present, to the rose gardens of the Royal Botanic Gardens. There was a wedding there yesterday. In my opinion, a large wedding. A lass of Indonesian background married a lad of Anglo-saxon background. Always good to see. But it is also good to see the swathe of green intact. The green that rushes up fro the harbour, through the Botanic Gardens, through the Domain, and inyo North Hyde Park, ending in South Hyde Park. I do not try to hide my admiration for Governor Lachlan Macquarie. This was his doing, this greensward. And I salute him for it. I think I am glad the Garden Palace is no more.

The images in this post have been sourced primarily from: State Records the Powerhouse Museum, and the State Library of NSW Other references are cited within the text.

Victoria - The Widow of Windsor

Two statues of Queen Victoria in our CBD. Two that I know of, anyways. The first and third photo show the same statue: located in the forecourt of the Queen Victoria Building (QVB), on the intersection of George Street, with both Park Street, and Druitt Streets. I stepped this way and that to alter the background, the golden sandstone of the QVB or the modern stripes of the Hilton. The middle shot is of the statue located at the top of Macquarie Street near its intersection with Prince Albert Road. I did not remove the background. What you see is the sky on an overcast day. Contrary to rumour, we do sometimes get those here in Sydney town.

Queen Victoria ascended the British Throne in June 1837 and died in January 1901 - 63 years and 7 months.. This was in the growth years of Sydney as a city. The ties to "motherland" were strong and genuine. Sadly, they still are. Sometime in September this year, the reign of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, will exceed that of her great-grand-mother.

A dwarfed Sydney Town Hall

I was standing at the intersection of York and Market Streets. My faher worked In D & W Murray (Wholesale Haberdasher) on this corner from 1935 (aged 14) until he joined the army in September 1942. (aged 21). I like York Street, as it has retained many of its early buildings. On the left is the massive Queen Victoria Building (QVB) which was built between 1893 and 1898, and has had numerous face-lifts since then. I remember borrowing books from the City Library which used to be housed therein. That was where I was first introduced to Charmaine Clift. Who? I hear you ask. Nevermind.

A stitch in time ...

Not long ago, I showed you the ediface for Lincraft, which is a handicraft shop, just down from the QVB. Today I show you the display windows for Morris & Sons, also a handicraft shop, a wee bit further down York Street. The two shops could not me more different in tone. Lincraft is all bright lights, and goods-a-tumble. I believe it could be described as cheap'n'cheerful - except handicrafts are rarely cheap. Morris & Sons is discreet, with subdued lighting, and sales assistants who maintain their cool demeamour.

Sydney from on high (3)

Looking down upon the 1898 Queen Victoria Building (QVB), which many would assert is the centre of this city. It is bounded by George Street (where the big, red bus is), York Street (on the other side), and has Market Street running east-west along the RHS. Market St is eponymous with the QVB which is the site of the original municipoal markets, the site having been reserved for such a purpose in 1810 by Governor Macquarie.

The masons are in town

There has been a lot of sandstone sprucing-up going on in our fair city over the last 18 months: State Library, Central Station clock tower, QVB, and now the Town Hall. The work is being done by the Traditional Sandstone Company, even though there does not appear to be much tradition in that dentist's drill he is using.

See up high on the clock tower, those little plywood inserts? Ten of the capitals are being recarved - not just being cleaned up, but reproduced. Each capital will take two weeks to carve, even with the power tools. The complete restoration project will take four years and cost $33 million, but all should be spic'n'span in time for the 150th celebrations in 2018.

Do you always look through windows like this to watch experts at work?

Now go off and read The Stone Book Quartet by Alan Garner. Read them in order: The Stone Book; Granny Reardun; The Aimer Gate; and, Tom Fobble's Day. I have them in mind for my grand-daughter when she is seven or eight.

Self-confessed 'luddite'

"Paspaley Pearls' on the corner of Martin Place and George Street

It is not that I am against progress, I just prefer to live in the past. Brushed aluminium, Scandinavian ashe, and etched glass are all well and good, but give me granite and sandstone any old day.

According to Wiki, the Luddites were a social movement of 19th-century English textile artisans who protested against the changes produced by the Industrial Revolution, that replaced them with less skilled, low wage labour, and which they felt were leaving them without work and changing their way of life.

Frequently, mechanised looms were destroyed in a quaint process referred to as "collective bargaining by riot".

In modern usage, a 'Luddite' is one overwhelmed by the new, by the modern, by the ever-changing, who seeks refuge in the tried and true, who reveres the test of time, who dwells in that fascinating land known as the past, or even, the 'passed'.

The short facade of the QVB facing Market Street

Weekend Reflections - Jostling for supremacy

On George Street, a block down from the town hall, the old and the new jostle for supremacy. The new is represented by the concrete, glass and aluminium of the Hilton Hotel (c. 1970). The old is represented by the sandstone, glass and copper of the Queen Victoria Building (c. 1898).

You realise, of course, that those dates are meaningless as both buildings have had extensive make-overs through the years, both inside and out. The QVB maintains its original appearance more so than does the Hilton. However, inside the Hilton is the 1893 Marble Bar, which, although maintaining its 'scaffolding' has also had a nip here, and a tuck there.

That is what cities do: they metamorphose to meet the needs of commerce.


This is a Weekend Reflections contributiom.

Decking QVB

The Swarovski Diamond tree is, once again, beneath the main dome of the Queen Victoria Building. Winding up three floors, the full majesty of the tree becomes apparent. Well ... it used to. This year the powers that be have erected a garish Santa 'thing' right next to the top of the tree. Appalling ... just appalling. But you, dear readers, have been spared this lapse in good taste and judgement.

An obese slinky

A sculpture down the stairwell of the George Street entrance to the Hilton Hotel.

And here are two more shots that I include because I listen to my readers. Yes, Joan, I liked the 'hanging gardens', too. And they made a great combination with the glass restaurant. The dome of the QVB which I showed yesterday. looms behind, and above, this restaurant.

Up with the toffs

How to make the Hilton Hotel appealing, I puzzled to myself as I negotiated the revolving door to the inner sanctum. Not my usual pasture, inner sanctums and toffs. But, here I was, at the request of Diane from Brissie. Lots of stairs and escalators in this building. You know those annoying sorts of escalators that make you walk right around to the other side to continue the 'up'. Going up four floors, I spied an outside balcony (perhaps for smokers?). Just perfect for shooting an unusual perspective of not only the Hilton but also the QVB. More tomorrow ...

The stench of markets in olfactory memory

Standing in Mullins Street, just down from Market Row, and facing east, with the Queen Victoria Building filling the view-finder. The QVB used to be the old Sydney markets, until its metamorphosis in the 1880s.

Texture - Sydney sandstone

The QVB (Queen Victoria Building) was built during the 1880s. It has endured a number of incarnations over the following 120 years (vegetable market, government offices, upmarket retail) and quite a few make-overs, bordering on face-lifts. It is currently undergoing another scrubbing. It is all the rage apparently. The State Library has been cleaned. Central Station clock-tower is being cleaned. A sandstone-led recovery from recession, perhaps.

But, get a look at this workmanship! Run a virtual finger over those sandstone-swirls.

Bird's eye view

Market Street is one-way crossing the CBD from East to West. It runs from Hyde Park North to Darling Harbour. Half-way along Market street in the block between George & York Streets stands the QVB which was built in 1888. Prior to this, there was a market on the site. Hence, the name.


Across Market Street in the photograph above, can you discern the glassed pedestrain walkway at the 1st floor level? I stood in this glassed enclosure to take a series of images up and down Market Street early on a Sunday morning.

In the photo on the LHS, I am facing west, toward Darling Harbour which is over the rise. See that bloke in the centre of the road? Where he is standing used to be the swamp wherefrom the Tank Stream sprang. The TS is the reason the early settlers established Sydney where it is. But within 80 years we had polluted the stream and now it is totally underground. In the photo on the RHS, I am facing east, toward Hyde Park. The neon light is an advertisement in the St James subway station which was dug into the park in 1926. All images should enlarge.

Ambos - Making a difference

The riderless motorcycle caught my attention first, propped outside the QVB. Then, I noticed the empty wheelchair beside it, and by gradual progression the ambulance around the corner in George Street. I never did see the patient. Oblivious of the swelling Friday afternoon crowd, the ambo calmly filled in his paperwork. It would be a long shift. Friday shifts always are in a large city.

Note: According to the website of the Ambulance Service of NSW, the motorcycle paramedics have been part of the service for ten years (so say 2000), and are allocated specific zones within the CBD. They can cut through alleys and through Martin Place (legally) and be with a man with chest pains within 3 minutes!

Yeah yeah yeah yeah stayin' alive!

In Sydney on Thursday, the CEO of our snootiest department store went public looking for a scapegoat for a profit downgrade he was about to announce. Everyone copped a spray, except himself and his board.

This brings me to my photograph today, which shows one of the walkways through the TGV building which stands diagonally opposite the Sydney Town Hall. TGV stands for The Galeries Victoria. No idea why it is called that.[Light-bulb Moment: it is opposite the QVB with its statue of Queen Victoris. Duh!!] However, the site has a fascinating recent history. Recent meaning in my life-time. Watch it!

This is the site of the old Waltons department store which put out its shingle in 1951. The Australian retail scene was changing and old allegiances were being strained - as they are now. Waltons took over Marcus Clark and then swallowed Anthony Hordern's Palace Emporium. Quickly followed McDowell's in 1971. By the following year Waltons had expanded to 96 department stores. The Waltons retail empire was sold to Alan Bond in 1981. The Waltons name disappeared when Bond sold the company in 1987. For many years it was a hole in the ground. Now it is TGV which, although you might think it to be a fast train in France, is actually a couple of malls with small boutiques and coffee shops.

And this stained glass hanging at the Pitt Street entrance.

Logos - How brain-washed are you?

After visiting a friend in the Mater at Crows Nest recovering from a knee replacement, I caught a red M20 cross-city bus back to the QVB, then meandered from there along Park Street, through Hyde Park South, up Oxford Street, and thence home. Along my journey, I encountered a myriad of logos. Here are six of them.

How many can you name with the entity (commercial/government) that they represent?

Sydney Open - the dome of the QVB

With much appreciation to Greg Lake for the use of his photographs.


Every two years, the Historic Houses Trust runs a Sydney Open, where upwards of 60 architectural icons are opened to the public. There is a 'general' section where you work out how many locations you can fit into your day, and knock them off one by one. Then, there are the 'Focus Tours' where you pay $30 per person, per tour. These sell out very quickly and places are limited. Getting in early, I secured tickets for the dome of the Queen Victoria Building, the tunnels beneath Central Station, and the Tank Stream beneath Australia Square.


The previous time the QVB dome was opened was in 2006, and one can appreciate why. There was a lot of steep climbing of rickety steps involved, and much dust and pigeon poop. However, the view from the top was exhilarating. This used to be the highest vantage point in the city. If there was a fire on the horizon, this is where it would be seen from first. Nowadays, we were engulfed by glass.


I am indebted to Greg Lake for the majority of photographs in this post, excepting the two immediately above this note of appreciation. Greg and his wife were on the Focus Tour with me, and graciously agreed to email me photographs. Silly me, had taken the organisers at their word when the blurb said 'No photography allowed'. The tour guides gave no such admonition, and camera phones popped up from everywhere. Silly me, left mine at home. Thank you, Greg. I appreciate being in touch with you.