Mostly Man O'Peace

Above: Image by Charles Bayliss (1881)(sourced from Blue Mountains Local Studies Centre) Below: Image by Julie Storry (May 2016)

We refer to this pier, and these steps as "Man O'War Steps". Although originally constructed during the governorship of Lachlan Macquarie (1810-1821), he only named the little enclosed beach as Port Lachlan, after his son. The current name stuck from about the 1860s. Even so, the name has lasted longer than the original jetty.

Above: Man O'War Steps, with HMS Royalist in foreground (from The Phillips Collectiuon housed at the Power House Museum)(c. 1900) Below: Image by Julie Sytorry (May 2016)

As you can see, from just three historical images, both the shape and the accessories, morph over time. Pontoons have been added, and removed. Sheds have been constructed; sheds have been demolished. Gates have been installed; gates have been moved.

Above: HMAS Australia I at Man O'War Steps (Image by Harold Cazneaux) (c. 1919)(NLA) Below: Image by Julie Storry (May 2016)

Taking my share of these images, I had my back to the Sydney Opera House. When it was constructed - during the 1960s and early 1970s- the Man O'War area was devastated, save for the steps. The safe-harbour for the watermen and their pointy-skiffs, never returned. Neither did the (naval) waiting sheds, regardless of whether the waiting was done by sailors wives, or by prostitutes.

A "Sydney Living Museum" Pass

I have a Sydney Living Museum 3-month pass, that enables me to see four named museums for an investment of $8. I saw the Museum of Sydney first, which is on Bridge Stree, down near Circular Quay, on the site of the first Government House. Then I went through the Justice & Police Museum, which is on Phillip Street, also down near Circular Quay. My third museum is this one: Hyde Park Barracks.

Hyde Park Barracks is on Macquarie Street adjacent to Hyde Park. It was commissioned by Governor Lachlan Macquarie, and designed and overseen by Francis Greenway. In 1817 it was ready for its first intake of convicts. From 1788 until then, convicts were mostly able to spend the night wherever they could find a roof. Where else were they going to run off too? Sydney was down the nether-end of the world! Those who did try to escape, died quickly in the unforgiving bush.

The massive footprint of the Garden Palace

The Garden Palace was erected for the 1879 Sydney International Exhibition, just as the Crystal Palace was erected for the 1851 Exhibition in London, and the Eiffel Tower for the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris. The Eiffel Tower is the only structure still standing, the Crystal Palace also being destroyed by fire, in 1936. Photo 1 and photo 3 show the current gates labelled "Garden Palace". I am not sure they are the sames gates as in photo 2, taken immediately after the blaze. The Australian Historical Society Green Plaque on the gates tell me they were erected in 1889, whereas websites tell me they are the originals. The originals were spread across what we know today as the intersection of Bent Street and Shakespeare Place, ie in front of the State Library, before there was a State Library. They could, of course, be from the original materials, erected in a different spot.

The Garden Palace was massive for its day, even for today if you consider that it was 4 times larger than the existing Queen Victoria Building (QVB), covering just over 8 acres. Its problem was that it was constructed primarily from timber, oregon imported from the United States. It was only ever intended to be a temporary structure, but politicians and citizens got carried away with the grandiose strucure and with their perceived status in the world. Being made from timber, it was a conflagration waiting to happen. Originally intended as a private enterprise venture, the time frame became squashed and the Premier, Sir Henry Parkes, offered the coffers of the state, giving the architect, James Barnet, and the builder, James Young, less than a year to get it all together.

The fire started around dawn on 22nd September, 1882. The watchmen had done their rounds during the early hour, and were out the front near the main gates doing the hand-over, when one noticed smoke arising from the dome. The raced up to the main entrance but it was filled with smoke, The fire-engines were speedily on site, but it was timber, it was on a rise from, the harbour, the design involved long wing that fanned the flames very nicely. The rose gardens of today's Royal Botanic Gardens occupy the space of the north wing of the Garden Palace, with the sunken memorial to the Pioneers (erected in 1938, with a bloody statue of Cupid, is close to where the massive dome loomed. The south wing jutted across Shakespeare Place and into Hospital Road. Below, on the left, ia an image from Sydney Architecture, which endeavours to show the massive footprint on a Google-map scene. It stretched from the State Library, along Macquarie Street, to the Conservatorium of Music, conceived by Governor Macquarie as stables for his dreamt-of Government House. To the eat, it tumbled down what are now lawns sloping down to Farm Cove. It was simply massive, with fantastic views, and could be seen from all over the North Shore of the harbour. It dominbated the skyline. It may not dominate nowadays with all the commercial high-rise of the CBD. Not everyone could go to the top of the donme like photograpgher, Charles Bayliss. But the northern tower had the city's first hydraulic lift, and the citizenry flocked to it in their thousands.

I just adore the next two historic images, taken whilst the 1879 exhibition was in progress, ie September 1879-April 1880. On the left, taken from the northern shore of the harbour, we have a view up the slope to the Garden Palace. On the right of thid image, one can see the curve of Macquarie Street, and the imposing sandstone ediface of the Colonial Secretary's building half-way up. Immeditely behind the celebratory yacht in the foreground, stands Fort Macquarie on Bennelong Point, the site for the Sydney Opera House. At this stage, Fort Macquarie was operating as a tram depot. Can you see the curve of cut standstone cliff which is the Tarpeian Walk, between Benelong point and the nearly inconspicuous Government House? On the right, is a shot taken from the spire of St James church, the same church I featured in my post just last Thursday. See the dome of the Garden Palace and its four entrance towers? Come back this way along Macquarie Street, and on its eastern side there is the Iron Church, which is the site of the "new" wing of the State Library. Next to that is the Legislative Assembly building, parallel to the street, and then the Legislative Council building, perpendicular to the street. Then, there is a long, long stretch of rubble, with the "quaint" Nightingale Wing behind. This rubble had been the second incarnation of the Sydney Hospital, Macquarie's "Rum Hospital" (1816-1879). The third, and still existant, incarnation of Sydney Hospital, although commenced in 1880, was not completed until 1894. In the background of the Garden Palace, can you see the sweep of Farm Cove as it travels out to Mrs Macquarie's Chair? And just the tiniest peek at Fort Denison, the island in the middle of the harbour. Both these phographs were taken by Charles Bayliss. What I wouldn't give (if I had it) to attend a dinner party with Mr Bayliss!

And, so I come back to the present, to the rose gardens of the Royal Botanic Gardens. There was a wedding there yesterday. In my opinion, a large wedding. A lass of Indonesian background married a lad of Anglo-saxon background. Always good to see. But it is also good to see the swathe of green intact. The green that rushes up fro the harbour, through the Botanic Gardens, through the Domain, and inyo North Hyde Park, ending in South Hyde Park. I do not try to hide my admiration for Governor Lachlan Macquarie. This was his doing, this greensward. And I salute him for it. I think I am glad the Garden Palace is no more.

The images in this post have been sourced primarily from: State Records the Powerhouse Museum, and the State Library of NSW Other references are cited within the text.

Sydney Skyline - from Farm Cove

There ius a 90 degree pivot between these two shots, as a storm brewed last Sunday afternoon. The first shot was facing south-west. The second shot was facing north-west. Farm Cove is the inlet on Sydney Harbour immediately to the east of Sydney Cove, where all the ferries choof and chugg. Hugging the brick retaining wall of the cove, is the green expanse of the Royal Botanic Gardens. The RBG morphs into The Domain. The Domain morphs into Hyde Park. This is quite a vision that Governor Lachlan Macquarie (1810-1821) bequeathed to the citizens of Sydney.

This is one of the "You are Here" signs just inside the gates of the RBG. I have adjusted it to suit this post. X marks where I stood to take the other two images.

Sydney from on high (3)

Looking down upon the 1898 Queen Victoria Building (QVB), which many would assert is the centre of this city. It is bounded by George Street (where the big, red bus is), York Street (on the other side), and has Market Street running east-west along the RHS. Market St is eponymous with the QVB which is the site of the original municipoal markets, the site having been reserved for such a purpose in 1810 by Governor Macquarie.

Sydney from on high (2)

Hyde Park South from the Observation Deck of Sydney Tower in Pitt Street. Hyde Park was established by Governor Macquarie. He pretty much left it to its own devices, as he was fighting fires on way too many fronts, what with the uppity military, and the free-settler disdain for the pardoned convict, that alone Commissioner Bigge and his listening to tattle-tales. So, Hyde Park was used as a military parade ground. It was used for cricket matches. It was used as a distribution point for water from Busby's Bore. It was a bit of a scruffy dust-bowl, if the truth were told. Building of the ANZAC Memorial seen here in the centre of the southern section of the park, commenced in 1930 during the height of the Great Depression, and the Memorial was officially opened on 24 November 1934. Hyde Park is just over 40 acres. I would love to know when Park Street cut through the park, but cannot seem to winkle it out.

Sydney from on high (1)

On the left, surrounded by red pebbles, Hyde Park Barracks, commissioned by Governor Lachlan Macquarie, 1818. Top centre: St Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral, foundation stone laid 1868. Middle centre: Archibald Fountain, erected 1932. In and around Hyde Park North, set aside for public recreation by Governor Macquarie in 1810. Taken from the observation level of Sydney Tower, Pitt Street, Sydney Australia.